Friday, September 7, 2012

You Want Great Turf Grass? Not Without This

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When you administrate your turf properly on a each year basis, it responds by dramatically changing your curb request for retrial and production your home the show piece of the neighborhood. The thick, lush stand of dark green grass tells you, and everybody else, because yes, they will notice, that you are doing something right.

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How is You Want Great Turf Grass? Not Without This

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Proper turf care includes;

choosing the allowable grass collection for your region, Cool season grasses- Tall Fescue, Rye, Blue Grass Central to Northern Us states, Warm season grasses- Zoysia, Bermuda, Bahia, Centipede Grass Southern Us states raising your mowing height to 3"- 3.5", portion blade on a flat surface keeping the mower blades sharp, once a month sharpen mowing on a weekly basis fertilizing and eliminating weeds, fertilize only when grass is actively growing watering 1 inch per week, if possible

In every growing season though, we will be challenged by some type of stressor be it scorching temperatures, high humidity or drought conditions and even the best kept turf will stress and need help. This is where one of the most crucial and often overlooked turf processes becomes essential to the prolonged success of your lawn, it's aerating and over seeding. You can't have a great lawn without it!

Aeration helps protect and grow the roots and Over seeding fills in any thin areas and keeps the turf thick and weed resistant. Both operations are best completed in late August to early September with aeration being completed first then, topdressing if necessary, then seeding.

The conjecture you start early in the fall is you want the new seedlings to have adequate time to form and mature to a point where they will need to be cut one or two times before being challenged by a cold, harsh winter.

How to begin?

The mowing right before you seed, you want to drop the blades down to 2"- 2.5", cutting the grass shorter. This removes the bulk of the longer grass allowing the seed and fertilizer to nothing else but drop down to the soil level were they do their best work.

Next you want to aerate. This is the process of poking holes in the soil surface. Motor is normally $ 75.00-0.00 a day rental and can be difficult to use. Aerate when the soil is wet, not muddy this will allow for greater penetration and great results. Try to aerate right after a slow full day soaking rain or after you deeply water your lawn.. Aerating when the soil is hard and dry will yield poor results.

Why is aeration good for the turf?

relieves compaction, loosens soil allows more water and fertilizer, lime into root zone allows more oxygen into root zone helps break down thatch allows top dressing to perforate soil increases root health and growth

Why Top dress?

Organic matter in the soil helps hold fertilizer and water for plants to use. It also helps drainage ny retention the roots wet but not saturated. If you conclude to top dress, do it After you aerate. It allows the organic matter to get into the aeration holes, immediately affecting the soil profile.

Over Seeding

After aeration and topdressing (if used) are finished, naturally broadcast the seed and fertilizer over the lawn. If you used a top dressing, take a general leaf rake and naturally flip it over so the pointy ends of the tines are sticking up. Lightly rake the entire lawn, attractive the topdressing ever so lightly. This helps integrate the seed into the soil. If your lawn is extensive, use an old screen or anything that you can drag across the covering to help integrate the seed.

Then water, water and water.

Tall Fescue seed will germinate in 10-14 days with water (my recommendation)

Rye seed will germinate in 5-7 days with water (browns out in the heat)

Blue Grass seed will germinate 10-14 days (requires a lot of water and fertilizer)

All the best,

Todd

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